shitposting shantytown - Printable Version

shitposting shantytown - Printable Version

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RE: shitposting shantytown - Infrared - 08-13-2013

The best

RE: shitposting shantytown - Loather - 11-15-2013

[Image: 6brmEPr.png]

RE: shitposting shantytown - Schazer - 11-19-2013

Schazer's wikiwalking fact of the day:

Watermelons are more distantly related from other melons than cucumbers, which share the genus Cucumis. Watermelons are in a separate genus, Citrullus.

RE: shitposting shantytown - Romythered - 11-19-2013

normal melons are related...?

RE: shitposting shantytown - Schazer - 11-19-2013

All living things are related, in the sense that if you go back enough generations there will be a common ancestor! Just because you need to go back several hundred generations or more to find it doesn't mean it wasn't there, or that it's any less valid a relationship than one animal might have with its sibling. If you go back far enough up the evolutionary tree (say, some point beyond 3 billion years ago), you'll find the single-celled organism that eventually gave rise to both plants and animals!

In a similar sense, the "most recent common ancestor" will be some dude and lady from 50-100 years ago, i.e. your common grandparents. At the very latest, the "most recent common ancestor" you share with anyone on this forum will be a lady running around Africa no more than 200,000 years ago - though with most people you'll share a much more recent ancestor. Keep going back far enough and you'll find a common ancestor with orangutans (14 million years ago), mice (88 million years ago), dinosaurs (about 300 million years ago), and even fungi and plants (somewhere in the billions of years ago)!

Basically taxonomy is super-cool and it's why you can't call a watermelon a rockmelon's bro, but a cucumber can totally fill that position.

RE: shitposting shantytown - BRPXQZME - 11-19-2013

[Image: WWGYHpT.gif]

RE: shitposting shantytown - Loather - 11-19-2013

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RE: shitposting shantytown - Gnauga - 11-19-2013

I'm still trying to find the context for Loather's big rant-block.

RE: shitposting shantytown - ICan'tGiveCredit - 11-19-2013

Highschool dropouts split in half.

RE: shitposting shantytown - weirdee - 11-19-2013

[Image: oh_zps562251b1.gif]

RE: shitposting shantytown - MaxieSatan - 11-20-2013

That gif has to be reversed, right? because otherwise his pupils would have, like, PRECOGNITIVELY DILATED

RE: shitposting shantytown - Romythered - 11-20-2013

how do you spell that one sound the knights of ni make

RE: shitposting shantytown - Nopad - 11-20-2013

"ni!"

RE: shitposting shantytown - Loather - 11-21-2013

PICKING A PROSPECT
We don't believe the "perfect packgoat" exists. But, there are attributes that you need to be aware of when picking your prospect. If you are a light, weekend packer you will be able to use a goat with some flaws, but the harder you intend to work your goat, the more of the following items you will have to take into consideration.

CONFORMATION
Prospects should be:
CAE and CL free-(goat viruses-CAE looks like arthritis, & CL is an abscess forming disease)
Minimum 34" at the withers-(our Oberhasli's are not this big, but if you want a large load this is the minimum size.)
Minimum 200 pounds-(same comment as height, the smaller the mass the less weight they can carry)
Leg length proportionate to body (no dachshund looking conformation -- like the Boer breed of goat)
Flat back from withers to loin-(helps carry weight evenly)
Withers and croup both same distance from the ground-not going uphill or down-(keeps pack from sliding)
Cannon bone 1/3 length of upper leg-(longer stride)
Good bone size in legs and feet
Wide across hip and shoulders-(good weight bearing surface)
Legs track reasonably straight when watched from the front-(elbows should not "wing" out - come away from the body)
Slightly hocky-good angles to hocks when viewed from the side and back give better traction and stay sounder than posty (very straight) legs.
Body type -(should look muscular in appearance -not a dairy goat type- with thigh/gaskin muscles well defined; shoulders and neck should also show good muscle tone.)

These, of course describe the "perfect" goat, but the harder you plan to work, the more they need to have good proportion and strong bone and feet.
(Here we have to say that one of our 'best' packers most definitely does not fit this profile. He is bow-legged, pigeon toed and his hoofs roll as he steps. But it hasn't proven a problem to him as far as we can tell. And we work our boys hard.)

To de-horn or not to de-horn, that is the question. There is a lot of controversy over this. Horns work as a cooling system in goats. They are also a major liability in herd management.
The arguments pro and con are many. Whichever you decide on, all your animals should be the same. Most breeders automatically de-horn new kids. The buyer usually must ask for this not to be done if they want horns.

MENTAL ATTRIBUTES
A goat can have all the great conformation in the world, but if he's not a "gung-ho" goat mentally, he's worthless as a packer. Good packgoats like to work and spend time with people. It's obvious when they're very small. In fact, if they follow into the training mud puddle for their bottle, they are likely to be good packers.
Our experience is that "attitude" plays an extremely important part in a packgoat. We recommend choosing a goat that is friendly, curious, doesn't mind being touched places, and one that has an alertness and brightness to its character.

Some goats are lazy. Nubians particularly have a reputation for this, but this doesn't mean that all are. And Nubian crosses can give you size while maintaining the more work oriented traits of the smaller breeds.
A goat from a reputable packgoat breeder will have been bred to select for gung-ho goat qualities. Goats should show that they are well-socialized and not exhibit fear or aggressiveness toward people. By the time they are weaned, they should not be butting or jumping up on people. It's cute in kids but not in full grown spoiled monsters. Your goat should be willing to respect you, just like any other working animal.

RE: shitposting shantytown - Loather - 11-21-2013

Goat tips
Compiled by High Uinta Pack Goats and Northwest Packgoats

The Bare Basics
Do not allow anyone to squirt your goats for fun. They trust you to praise them when they do well and correct them when they mess up. If the goat gets squirted for no reason it will be confused and may think it has done something wrong.
Do not allow the goat to do something sometimes and then correct it for doing it at other times. Decide what is acceptable behavior in the beginning and stick with it. Be consistent!
Do not grab a goat by the horns, they don't like it. It will cause them to start using their horns when interacting with people.
Do not holler and carry on at your goat for reasons beyond their control. Like the smashed thumb you got hammering the nail into the loose hayrack. A trusting relationship is built around consistency.
It is not recommended that you tie or highline the goats and leave; you are putting them at risk and they do not like to be left alone.

Loading Panniers- try to keep the volume close to the same in each of the side panniers. The side panniers should weight within ½ pound of each other and the top duffle pannier should not weight more than one side pannier. Secure the items inside so they do not shift to the side with the two straps inside. Load only soft or smooth items that will be next to the goat in the side panniers. Pull all draw strings closed and tuck inside.

Saddles- Give the goat a good brushing before saddling and after saddle is removed. Check saddle pad and strips for burs and sharp items stand on left side of goat and place the saddle forward on goat and slide back into place (the wood part just aft of the shoulder blade) do not slide saddle forward on goat place butt strip into position and lift the goats tail. Attach the chest strap with the clip then do up the sternum strap should be about 1" aft of the front legs when tight you should almost get one finger between the goat and the strap at the bottom. Now take each leg at the knee and lift up to at least a 90 to pull and stretch the skin so it will not bind when walking. Make sure the yellow strap is between the saddle and the pad before synching down saddle.

Hanging the panniers- support the weight of the first pannier until the second one is on so not to twist the saddle. Do up the center strap and pull to just take up the slack and a little more so it is not on the goats sides but not so much that it can rock side to side then place the top duffle on and snap all 4 clips and secure with the yellow strap tight.

Attach the leash so it will not drag where the goats can trip or become tangled in it, but where you can get to it fast if needed.

It is not recommended that you put equipment on the goats that you are not willing to carry yourself; for that get a horse. A goat is a hiking companion as well as a pack animal.

On The Trail
Things that would make a goat want to stop or lay down are saddle sores or rubs, injuries, and sharp objects poking the goat from the backside of the panniers or saddle pad. If the goat doesn't want to go, you should take some time to make sure everything is ok, before going on. Keep this in mind when loading panniers and put soft conforming materials against the "goat side" of the pannier.

Also remember the goat is hauling most of the weight, slow your pace down or you will wear him out early. If the goat is breathing hard or panting slow down or stop and rest.

It is normal for goats that are hiking loose to stray 30-40 yards away to eat while you travel. They will run to catch up only to stop and nibble a tasty plant and let you get ahead again. They will rarely let you get out of sight though. This eat and run behavior will decrease as the goat tires after a couple of miles. Most goats file in behind you, plodding steadily along on the trail.

If you have more than one goat, you will notice that they seem to compete for positions on the trail. After they get it worked out, remember the hiking order. If you have to tie the goats together in a string, tie them in the right order. It will make the difference between an orderly hike and a tangled mess.

When a goat stops in front of you to eat and blocks the trail keep walking and go around his back side the best you can and he will then turn and start walking again just as you pass him. If unable to pass then act like you are and make the same noise like walking in place, or gently pull on his tail with a "lets go". Remember if you stop, they all stop.

Remember that goats are a herd, your group must stay together and in sight of each other or the goats will become disorganized, scattered and stressed. A good herd (people included) stays together for mutual protection to the goat mind.

Water: Goats do not like to get there feet wet or be in the rain but will if need to. When crossing small or large streams let the goats see where you crossed they will rock hop across, jump, look for another way or just walk through and get wet. Do not cross and then stop on the other side they will not cross. Keep moving about 20 + yards and call for them they should follow if not you may need to lead them across be careful and don't fall in. If they stop to drink pause till they have all had the water they want then move on.

Goats are very social animals they like to stop and visit with other people on the trail, If you see other people coming down the trail take hold of the leash, lead the goats past until the people are out of sight, and tuck the leash back under the panniers, all without ever stopping. Also if people are coming up from behind and need to pass it is best to move off the trail and let them got out of sight before moving on.

Trail etiquette: All livestock have right away over hikers, Bicycles, and ATVs. Horses and mules have right away over goats. Most horses and mules are spooked by goats, when seen let them know you are there and you have pack goats and if they could stop wile you get to the LOW side of the trail about 30 feet or more and stand still while talking to the horse people as they pass so not to spook the horses (when a horse spooks it will most likely run uphill). Llamas and goats should be ok side by side on the trail. Use good judgment, common sense and be polite

Dogs: Have all people control their dogs as most all dogs will want to chase and bite the goats if this happens do what you need to too disable the dog (try using the water first, then a big stick) be careful handling strange dogs you may get bitten.

Well Behaved In Camp
At end of day remove saddle and panniers as one unit brush goat down good and apply bug spray if needed and let browse in or near camp. Place all equipment together under a tree or cover to keep dry, run ropes for highline for night time, put rain tarp up for goats if needed, give each a vitamin B-1 and a treat, and offer them some water from the dish after you have tied them for the night before you go to bed.

Once at camp the goats are usually left loose. Teaching them camp manners is simply teaching them what things they are not allowed to do or areas they are not allowed in.

Rule Number One: Don't ever chase a goat away from the scene of its crime. You cannot catch it and the goat knows it. Just making it leave the areas is not a correction. In the goat's way of thinking it won the confrontation and you may actually be teaching the goat to play games in which it tries to see how much stuff it can get out of the bag before dancing away just out of reach. To the goat this is fun, but to the humans in camp it leads to thoughts of goat murder. A correction is made by contact with the goat. Anything you squirt or throw that contacts the goats is the same as if you touched it. Be careful if you throw something to make sure it isn't going to hurt the goat. Pain is not necessary, only the verbal command and something to contact the goat and make it move away.

Rule Number Two: When teaching camp manners, NEVER feed a goat people food. Once a goat gets a piece of your bread or some of your potato chips you will be mobbed every time you eat. It is annoying for guests when the goats are pushing and shoving them, hoping for a hand out and potentially dangerous for children. Save the people food for people. If you are eating and a goat steps up for a sniff or nibble of your lunch tell it "NO" or "BACK" and make the goat back off. Squirt it or push it back with your foot. Don't pet or scratch your goat while you are eating. The goat will learn to go else where or at least keep its distance when you are eating. With a little thinking, you can adapt this training to include the whole cooking area. If you have an extra persistent goat (usually one that has been fed) then you may have to tie it while cooking and eating.

A little fore thought on your part can stop a lot of problems before they happen. If you leave panniers with great smelling stuff in them laying around, out of your area of control; then don't be surprised when the goats start poking into all of the bags pulling out clothes and food. Especially with new goats in camp always keep the food under your supervision. Do not allow any goat to sniff around any pannier bags. The bags should be an "off limits item" at camp. Using the command of "NO", point at the goat and back it up with a squirt or pine cone if necessary. BE CONSISTENT; don't let a new goat get away with any negative behavior without correction being made. Remember don't chase a goat away.

At night the food should be pulled into a tree in a "bear proof" manner. If there are no bears in your area then put the food inside the tent, or tie the goats up.

As far as the tent is concerned never allow any goats inside. Goats are one of the few animals that enjoy being inside and once in, they will charge in every time the door is open. If you are sleeping on the ground without a tent, then rely on the "BACK" command and a few well placed corrections to teach an acceptable zone around you so that you are not getting stepped on or peed on while you try to sleep.

Goats will get hypothermia if left in the rain and cold the same as people.

Goats will get Altitude Sickness the same as people: slow down, lighten their load, rest often, and offer water or energy drink. Do not over hike the first two days so you and the goats have time to adjust.

Talk calmly to and pet the goats thought out the day they need your approval and they will give you their best.

ONLINE PREMIUM: How to saddle a goat. Pictures taken August 8, 2006 at the morning saddling on Highline Trail Trip in the High Uinta Wilderness of northeastern Utah.

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Collect the goat. Brush his coat down firmly and be sure he is free of debris on his body. Bruch with the grain of the hair. Double check the "underarm" as this collects pine sap and other sticky things. Remember to talk to them, they seem to like it more.

Josh with Io.

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Check the saddle pad for debris, clear all such from saddle. Even one blade of grass can cause chaffing with a load on the goat; it's like having a foxtail stuck in your sock that you can't get out.. If you have help, one person should hold the goat so he will not try to eat while being saddled.

Clay & Perry with Goatee.

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Position the pad and saddle as a unit, sliding from neck to back with grain of the hair. Most saddles should sit one knuckle length behind the shoulder blade. (Northwest has a saddle that does fit on the shoulder blade and is the one seen in this picture.) Place the butt strap -left tail free- then the chest strap. Secure the girth belt at least two or more finger widths behind the armpit. An adult person should be able to just get two fingers snuggly underneath the strap. Be aware that a few goats – like horses – tend to “puff up” at this point, so recheck just before loading panniers on.

Clay & Perry with Goatee

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Pull the front legs gently forward with the goat's knee bent. This is a very important and often forgotten step. Normal saddling “bunches” the skin off the “underarms” and frequently causes chaffing. Pulling each leg forward after the girth is tightened frees the skin to move freely as the goat walks and not chaff on the girth strap.

Charlotte with Capricorn

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Finally, place and secure the pannier to the saddle. When placing the panniers if you have two people each attach one side pannier and gently release the weight onto the goat together so it does not off balance the goat. If you are alone, attach near side and rest weight of pack on your knee while attaching far side pannier, ease weight on both sides onto goat at the same time. Attach any “across the top” stuff and you are ready to go. Confirm that all buckles and straps on panniers are secure.

Clay & Ed with Taz

RE: shitposting shantytown - Loather - 11-21-2013

BASIC INFO: Goats have been used for centuries, to carry loads, starting in places like Iran and Tibet. Goats like to travel in herds and will quickly let you become part of their specific "herd."
Goats also cost less and are less costly to maintain in the non-camping months. Two goats will live on a 1/4 acre. Two is the minimum recommended number of goats as they need companionship, although they will attach themselves to other species, including you, if they have no other goats around.
A healthy, packgoat quality, imprinted kid starts at $150. You can maintain two for about $30 per month. They require shelter, but it doesn't have to be fancy, just dry and windproof. They do well in cattle panel fencing, or field fence with hot wire top and bottom.
If you've heard old wives' tales about goats, including the one that all goats smell bad, well, that's only the bucks and they're not usually used for packing. And as far as goats having nasty dispositions, not the one's that are properly raised. Goats are similar to a good dog in temperament , if raised correctly.
Goats are ecologically sound, easy to train, and love the contact with humans associated with packing. They are really useful and fun animals to work with.
The goats first three years are used to grow and develop. These are the bonding years that make or break a good pack goat. They should be learning manners rather then "how to" pack. How to behave on a leash, in camp, on the trail, when to eat, then not eat, when to rest, how to follow, how to cross water. It is more important they learn these manners, the "packing" will come naturally if they have the behavior basics.

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Statistics

How much can one carry? Goats can easily carry 1/4 of their total body weight. Fully conditioned packers can reach up to 1/3. A large fully grown wether can easily carry 40 to 60 pounds of gear. That's a lot of stuff, and if you need more you can just add another goat!
When can they pack? Too young?DO NOT PACK YOUR GOATS UNTIL THEIR 4TH YEAR! They do not need "soft pack" training and it can actually harm the goat.
To old? Healthy, well cared for and conditioned goats can pack for many years. We have heard of some that are 15 years plus.

Why Pack Goats?
Loyal, Easy to Handle: Goats are ideal companions for seniors who can no longer carry a backpack and for families with small children. Goats are personable, properly trained they prefer being with people. Goats are easily led by children and are easy to pack for ALL ages, as you need not lift the load very high. Goats, like dogs, bond with humans at a young age and will follow anywhere. In areas not requiring tying, your goats will willingly follow along the trail, browse for his own food and sleep next to your tent or rainfly.
Go Anywhere: Goats can utilize areas that are inaccessible to horses, relieving congestion on crowded trails. They can travel over a wide variety of terrain, including packed snow, downed logs and rock. Anything short of a cliff, if you can get there, so can your goats. Probably with a silly face watching you catch up.
No Trace Camping, Environmentally Friendly: A goat's impact on the land is minimal. Goats eat like deer. They forage and browse for wide variety of food, so there is no need to pack food for them. Goats do not dig holes, or even leave much a a print at all. And there droppings are not smelly. In fact, to the untrained a goats droppings and hoof prints would appear to be those of a deer. Goats require very little extra food to be transported for them, unlike llamas and horses. Goats are also less likely to leave behind reminders of their presence in the wilderness. No large manure piles, broken limbs, and pawed out areas. Goats fit the "leave no trace camping" ethic very well.

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Advantages vs Disadvantages

Advantages
Carry all sorts of gear, greatly reducing the amount of gear you have to carry. Goats can easily carry 20% - 30% of their body weight in saddles and gear (a 200 lbs. goat can readily carry 50 lbs. all day)

Goats handle rougher terrain than other pack animals

Goats have minimal impact on the environment

Goats don't need large quantities of feed, they can browse on the trail

Goats do not have to have water every day, if forage is good. (three days is not uncommon)

Goats are relatively easy to train and easily handled by people of all ages and abilities

Goats will haul in a small trailer or a pickup with or without a canopy

Goats are pleasant animals who will stay with the herd and not stray from the group

Goats do not need to be tied up at night if properly bonded to humans

Goats do not need to be lead, they follow naturally

Goats are well suited to No Trace Camping practices

Less expensive to own and operate than other pack animals

Disadvantages
Goats travel less distance per day than other pack animals (smell the flowers)

Goats carry less weight than other pack animals (get more)

As with any animal, a certain amount of daily care and attention is required to keep goats (get disciplined)

Initial start-up expenses may be quite high (but not as high as with other pack animals)

Zoning regulations may limit your ability to keep goats in your backyard (move, or rent from us)

Do I want Horns on my goats?
This is a hot issue and ultimately comes downs to personal preference. We chose to have horns on our goats. We like the look of horned goats. We live in semi arid conditions where the horns DO help disperse heat. And we are rural enough the roaming domestic dogs are a problem. Most have learned to respect our boys ability to defend their turf. On the converse side, we have had bruised ribs, torn shirts and one split lip from dealing with horned packers (totally accidental on the goat's part). And we still want horns. But all of our family and their friends that visit know that grabbing the horns is a total no no as this single action encourages them to butt people.
Horns vs No Horns Horns on a pack goat function as a cooling system - they each have a large blood vessel running through them. This allows the animal to cool itself as the blood circulates through the horn. The heat dissipates to the surface of the horn. Horns are also good for protection against dogs and predators. If a goat is bottle raised (and no one played with its horns), it should not drop its horns to people. For people that have shown dairy goats, the 4H and the American Dairy Goat Association rules are "no horned animals". This is for safety simply because many people do not hand raise their goats, and some breeds of goats tend to be more aggressive than others. If one chooses not to keep the horns, the best time to disbud (destroy the horn buds) is when the goat kid is ten days to two weeks of age. Our experience indicates that disbudding is best done with the use of a hot iron, as pastes and castrator bands do not work well with goats. Whichever you chose, be consistent.It is not reccomented to mix horned and no horns in the same herd. It can work but the horned have an advantage over the unhorned.

So how do you get pack goats to the trailhead?
Goats are also easier to transport than larger pack animals. Three will fit nicely into a small pickup with a canopy. In a home made animal box two will even fit in a SUV or Mini Van. Full sided pickups with simple wood sides can hold several.

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What's Paco doing in the front?

1968 Ford Pickup
Converted to Propane

Transportation: For moving the goats to Settlement Canyon (within two miles and where we do most of our training hikes), most often we just load everyone into a utility trailer that holds eleven very comfortably and not to close. For regular pack trips or longer distances from home we have a couple of house trailers that block wind. We put the gear in the pickup.

Load up!

Basic Utility Trailer with side panels.
Goats are individually tied to side panels.
They can stand or lie down durning travel.

What is the Cost of a Pack Goat?
From a pack goat breeder, you can expect to pay $100 to $175 for a beginning packgoat less than six months of age. A fully trained pack goat can cost $350 to $600 depending on training, size and age, plus equipment.
If you know what to look for, good quality animals can be purchased from the local livestock auction. Expect to pay from $30.00 to $40.00 for young goats and about $125.00 for older goats. This is a much more risky way of getting your goat so you'd best know what you are doing! I would not recommend using this method unless you are experienced in raising goats. Take the time to scout out some reputable breeders and do some research. Cheap is not always the best way to go. It can be very frustrating if you're just starting out and are trying to work with an inferior animal. We learned NOT to go this route for us. All of our less than good packers were cheap. Spend the time to learn about goats. You'll be glad you did.

What type of standard equipment do I need?
There are a variety of things to consider when you think about owning packgoats. As with any animal, goats have special needs. They need a fenced area which has shelter, food and water available daily. You will need to purchase feed, medicines, and various supplies on an ongoing basis in order to properly care for your goats.
You will need to figure out how to transport your animals to and from your destination. Goats have been transported in all manner of vehicles - pickups, vans, suv's, and trailers of all types. Home built, brand spanking new trailers, whatever works and is available to you. Be careful of open trailers. You don't want your hiking buddy to jump out while you're traveling. ((Chain link fencing is not reccommended. We have found that 4" X 4" welded wire 5' X 16' panels work the best.))

What Packing Equipment Do I Need?
Since packgoats are working animals, you will need to purchase pack equipment for each animal. Halters, collars, leads, pack saddles, panniers, are but a few of the items necessary for proper outfitting.
Two types of packs are commonly used. The most common type of pack is a cross buck, and is used to carry full loads of 25% to 30% of the goat's body weight. The cross buck consists of the saddle (wood or metal), saddle pad, and panniers (carrying bags). This pack type can cost $150 or more. The other is a bucket and strap system, most usuful for hunting. Cost is an empty square 4 gallon laudery bucket and and per made strapping that runs about $20. You also need a collar, lead and ID tag for the goat. Using "dog packs" or home made "soft packs" can be harmful to the goat by destroying their back.

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What Do I Need to Consider if I Decide to Purchase a Goat?
Land – 100 sq. ft. per goat.
Fencing – 5-ft. high field/horse fencing. (With horned goats 4" squares recommend)
Shelter – Covered, with at least three sides, dry and blocks main wind flow.
Food - hay: alfalfa/grass mix and vitamins. Mineral salt lick. And protein treats
Water – fresh daily.
Health Care – yearly checkups, worming, yearly vaccinations, hooves trimmed every 6 to 12 weeks. (dependent on need)
Companionship – consider at least 2 goats to keep each other company. Goats are herd animals and tend to act out or cry a lot if solo. They do make good horse companions.
Care Cost – about $15 to $20 per month per goat.
Exercise – a hike a week or walks during the week. An exercised goat is a healthy goat.
Training Time – plan to spend several minutes each day with the goat to work on commands as well as for bonding.

RE: shitposting shantytown - Romythered - 11-21-2013

(11-20-2013, 10:51 AM)Nopad Wrote: »"ni!"

wrong noise

RE: shitposting shantytown - MaxieSatan - 11-21-2013

Ekki-ekki-ekki-ekki-ptang zoom-boing z'nourrwringmm, y'mean?

RE: shitposting shantytown - Romythered - 11-21-2013

yes that

RE: shitposting shantytown - Romythered - 11-24-2013

(11-22-2013, 05:30 AM)bigro Wrote: »
(11-21-2013, 10:16 PM)MrGuy Wrote: »Ekki-ekki-ekki-ekki-ptang zoom-boing z'nourrwringmm, y'mean?

Dude don't say that. Have some caution with these powerful words.

hey at least he didn't say the word

RE: shitposting shantytown - Schazer - 11-26-2013

Guys, why do we not call a chair a buttrest

Also why is it that when you demark something, you are actually marking it/distinguishing it

English is so stupid

RE: shitposting shantytown - Dragon Fogel - 11-26-2013

I just can't help but read that as "denmark something".

RE: shitposting shantytown - weirdee - 11-28-2013

RE: shitposting shantytown - weirdee - 11-29-2013

bumper crop of dumb things this week

RE: shitposting shantytown - weirdee - 12-04-2013

the tenth sign of the apocalypse has manifested